FRANCE 2013 - SEILLANS

There is a little village called Seillans not far from Fayence via narrow roads and built on the side of a hill that we were keen to visit.

We arrived and found the parking area towards the top of the village and headed towards the village square. We were particularly keen to visit here as we had read it is one of the prettiest villages in France.

 It is !

 

Perched on the side of the hill, the narrow streets wind around beautifully maintained,  shuttered houses, three to four stories high, some with ancient front doors with ivy and potted plants providing colour and where there is room, the odd olive tree sprouts from the cobbled streets.

 

A narrow street leads down into the town square which has a large stone retaining wall on one side and contains mature trees providing lovely shade. Around the other side is tall shuttered housing and a hotel and in the centre of this large open space was a large fountain with trickling water dripping onto buckets of roses.

 

 

 Ranged around the fountain were many tables making a restaurant called La Gloire de Mon Pere. Here a large number of people, both locals and tourists, were being served by waiters who run up and down the street to the kitchen (which is actually part of a hotel).

 

 

How delightful !

 

 

Leaving this delightful scene were wandered along narrow lanes exploring all the little nooks and crannies with a photo opportunity round every corner.

 

We gradually worked our way to the other side of the village where we came upon another restaurant/ cafe.

The second cafe was a lot smaller but again outdoors shaded by a beautiful tree. The steep area had been levelled with a stone retaining wall and in the centre was a large fountain with tables spread around it as before.

Iron bottle holders were attached at appropriate spots in the fountain so the water tumbling from the fountain kept the wine cooled. The waiters were dressed in full white aprons which touched their shoes.

 

Regretfully it was too late for lunch but when the opportunity presented itself to us the following day we couldn't get there quickly enough.

Seated at tables on rough cobblestones in the town square under the shade of old trees, we knew that lunch at La Gloire de Mon Pere would be a wonderful way to spend an afternoon.

 Rack of lamb with zucchini and orange peel couscous, roasted cherry tomatoes and orange segments with a beautiful orange sauce,

then finished off with tart tattin for me and a strawberry sorbet for Helen.

 

This may sound like an extravagant lunch but it was really quite light and the French really do have these wonderful long lunches.

Communicating in French with our very friendly waiter was a lot of fun . It is surprising how much you begin to understand using halting English, French and mime !!
There was much laughter and warmth as we said our goodbyes

Another wonderful memory to store away.

FRANCE 2013- FAYENCE AND THE VAR REGION OF PROVENCE

 

Fayence is a lovely village in the Var region of Provence with some very old parts and  is situated on a steep hill with a very narrow winding road to the summit. 

 

Our accommodation is situated down a very narrow one way lane. The turn off is not immediately visible from the main road as it appears from a driving point of view that you are driving through an outdoor cafe. The road is very windy, one way, cobbled, narrow and steep in parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our accommodation  is a very old house with the classic stone walls, half pipe terra cotta roof  and has the mandatory French shutters. A lovely outdoor area overlooks cherry trees with grapes and flowering wisteria growing on the walls and pergola . Of course being on the side of the hill we have spectacular views especially from the bedrooms which are upstairs. The house is very well equipped if not a little rough around the edges. Being so old and built of stone, none of the walls are square so where tiles don't meet walls" Selley's No Gaps" gets used in abundance.

 

 A house full of character that we love.

 

Every little bit of space is precious in these villages and is utilised to the full. We pass a cafe in one of the narrow lanes that cooks on one side of the street and has their tables on the other side.

 

 

 

We wandered down narrow lane ways looking at these stone buildings that are mostly three, some four, stories high with shutters painted in different colours, predominantly a purpely blue.

 

 

 

Some decorate around their front doors with ivy, climbing roses and other brightly coloured flowering pots and benches to sit on. Some houses are rendered and painted with earthy colours. Little cafes can suddenly appear down these lane ways leaving you wondering where their business comes from.

 

 

After exploring Fayence we then headed off to Tourrettes, Mons, Callian and Monauroux - collectively known as " villages perche ". All these villages have a common theme. They are all built on top of a very high knoll with a chapel or some sort of fortification on the top.

 

 

There is always a  town square usually with a water trough and Plane trees and Olive trees for shade.

 

 

 

The entry to Tourrettes was particularly narrow with the car mirrors clearing the buildings by inches only.

 

 

All these villages have the narrow lanes to wander and enjoy.

 

 

In Medieval times these villages would come under attack and everyone would move to the chapel and a defence would be mounted from the highest point which was very effective.

Of course everywhere the mandatory French cafes abound. I think that people who live in these villages must still live a simple life with few possessions .

The road that links these villages winds its way around these knolls and ridges with stunning views .

 

 

 

 

The country is very stoney but olive trees are growing very successfully and by the size of the trunks some would be very very old. The road was a good surface but very narrow in spots with not a lot in the way of guard rails, so care had to be taken to stay on the road as we were very high !

 

In the evening we booked a balcony table at a little local cafe called Le France about a ten minute walk from home. We booked at 8pm because that is time people eat out in this country.

 

Le France is situated overlooking the Main Street with a narrow walkway down the side. The Main Street is only one car wide here with your typical French shuttered houses on the opposite side of the street, a beautiful setting. We sat on the canvas covered balcony about four metres wide looking down along the street.

 

As the sun set the street was lit by very big French lanterns that are so common in these villages and which glow rather than provide bright light. The light given out is very yellow and muted which enhances an already beautiful setting.

 

The food as usual was beautiful. After ordering a two course plat du jour for 29euros we were presented firstly with a four piece nibble (gratis) then a small volute was delivered- Asparagus and cheese  ( also gratis). This we followed with veal in mushroom sauce with broccoli , potato, carrot, and artichoke all beautifully presented and served. Of course dessert was chocolate fondant with ice cream and raspberry !

 

 

 

The meal was accompanied with a bottle of Cote de Rhone rouge. A truly wonderful evening as we wandered home at 11 pm through winding dimly lit lane ways.

A lovely part of the world.